Zhaji Lamu: The Goddess in the Smoke and Fire of Tibet
chenHenry
The first time I saw her portrait at Zhaji Temple in Lhasa, the wick of the oil lamp burst into a string of sparks. The orange-red light danced on the canvas, making the goddess's golden ornaments glow with a warm heat - only later did I know that this is what the Tibetans often call "Zhaji Lamu".
Her appearance is really special. She is neither sitting in the solemn manner of common Buddhas nor showing the fierce and angry eyes of Dharma protectors. The painted Zhaji Lamu stands sideways, with her eyebrows and eyes slanting upward, like the curve of a Tibetan girl's smile. The two clusters of rouge on her cheeks are bright red, as if just pressed with the tip of a finger, carrying a touch of innocent charm. But looking again at the turquoise belt around her waist and the silver bracelets on her wrists, there is an air of dignity that cannot be taken lightly. The most amazing thing is the cup of highland barley wine in her hand, the wine seems to ripple on the canvas, making people feel that the next second they will hear the sound of her sipping.
Elderly Tibetans say that Zhaji Lamu was originally a woman from the Han region. When she followed Princess Wencheng to Tibet, she secretly hid in the team, enduring hardships all the way, and finally stopped at Zhaji Mountain outside Lhasa. The herdsmen at the foot of the mountain saw that her clothes were thin and invited her to come in to warm by the fire, but she shook her head and only stuck a pot of Gesang flowers in the stone crevice. Later, people realized that this girl who always loved to dress up by the lake had come with a mission - to protect those who work hard for a living.
Nowadays, at Zhaji Temple, people line up with hada in their hands before dawn every day. Tibetan businessmen will place three bottles of white wine on her offering table, saying that the goddess loves this; students with schoolbags secretly put a piece of milk candy, hoping for smooth exams; even the old 阿妈 who turns the prayer wheel will tremblingly take out a coin and mutter about adding a calf to the family. The smoke of life mixed with the fragrance of butter has smoked a layer of warm yellow fog on the glass cover in front of the statue, making this goddess more like the helpful neighbor aunt.
The painter Tsering told me that painting Zhaji Lamu consumes a lot of rouge. When he mixes pigments in his workshop on Barkhor Street, he always adds a little saffron water to the cinnabar, "so that the red becomes vivid, as if it can seep into people's hearts". He said that once he was painting a mural for an inn, the landlady insisted on adding a bunch of keys beside the goddess, "she said that now there is no shortage of highland barley wine, but she just hopes that when closing the store every day, the key can smoothly insert into the lock hole".
In fact, the divine power of Zhaji Lamu has never been in an unreachable place. It is hidden in the smell of wine in the early morning of Lhasa, in the palms of believers when they put their hands together, and in the hearts of everyone who works hard for life. As the lama in the temple said: "If you offer her a cup of wine, she will walk with you for a while."
Precisely because this company is so precious, many people hope to carry Zhaji Lamu's protection with them. Our carefully crafted Zhaji Lamu Thangka pendant necklace is made with such an intention. The portrait of Zhaji Lamu on the pendant is painted by experienced painters in accordance with traditional techniques. The slanting eyebrows and bright rouge are as vivid as the portrait in Zhaji Temple. The small pendant can be worn close to the body. Whether it is a businessman rushing for a living, a student striving for a dream, or an ordinary person hoping for the well-being of his family, they can have this blessing from Zhaji Lamu with them all the time.
When you walk through the streets of the city with this pendant, it is like a silent partner, witnessing your efforts and persistence. Maybe in a moment of tiredness, when you lower your head and catch a glimpse of that warm color, you will think of the smoke of life in Zhaji Temple and the goddess who is willing to walk with you for a while, and then you will gain some strength in your heart.
If you ever go to Zhaji Temple, you might as well bring a bottle of low-alcohol white wine. Stand in front of her portrait for a while and watch the light of the butter lamp flow on her eyebrows. You may understand that those wishes for wealth and peace are, after all, the desire for a good life. And this Zhaji Lamu Thangka pendant necklace has quietly tied this desire and protection around your neck.
